Art & Love - Viva Mexico
It
all started with the movie Frida. My brother was impressed by
Frida’s life story and offered me a ticket to join him and his wife
on a Frida Kahlo Trail. This was a dream come true! I have read
everything printed about Frida Kahlo, even took a course about her at
University…. And, now I had a chance to see the original artwork and the
house she shared with her husband Diego Rivera.
Art
in
Mexico is everywhere! It starts with the way the vendors artistically
present their wares on the sidewalks, their music, fine crafts in the
markets, their flower arrangements, their gardens and, of course the
famous murals. Even the Kleenex at the hotel is folded artistically.
The architecture is impressive. From the huge cathedrals to the smallest
churches in the villages, surrounded by gardens and, bougainvillea;
buildings covered in blue tiles turned into a café with murals of famous
Mexican artists on stairways, banks and schools in beautiful historical
buildings and, of course, Frida Kahlo’s (1907-1954) Blue House (Casa
Azul) where she lived with her husband, Diego Rivera (1886-l957).
Let me tell you….seeing a photo of Frida’s body-cast is one
thing, but standing right there, next to it….and seeing a photo of Diego
kissing Frida wearing the cast…..is quite a different experience. Then
going up the staircase of the
National Palace and seeing Diego Rivera’s Murals (with Frida painted
twice, once with her sister and once dressed as an Indian woman) I kept
on gasping at the magnitude of it all. Diego Rivera is absolutely
revered by Mexicans…..everybody asked, have you seen the murals yet?
Which ones? So you have not seen the one in Alameda Park yet?
At the hotel I was staying at, I saw a poster stating “MEXICO -
Where Renaissance went after it left Europe”…..However, there is a
lot more to Mexican art ….there are a few thousand years of creative
work found in the many pyramids with wall paintings, carved stone
artwork, sculptures and clay vessels and figures. The rich culture of
pre-Columbian artistry is amazing. No wonder Frida Kahlo and Diego
Rivera fought to preserve their native heritage for posterity. All this
precious art is shown in exquisite museums. On weekends, entrance to
museum is free for Mexican citizens. Families with school-children
taking notes, flock to them. It is absolutely heart warming to see.
Frida & Diego’s love story is but one of many Mexican legends. A
love story that is part of the daily life in
Mexico
is that of Iztaccihuatl (a 5,286 meter high mountain) and,
Popocatepetl
(Smokey Mountain 5,465 m), the two volcanoes are seen from almost
anywhere in Mexico City. Both mountain peaks are covered in snow. The
name Iztaccihuatl (pronounced ista-cee-houatl) means white woman in
N·huatl (Aztec). However the legend calls the mountain the Sleeping
Woman (because of its prominent features suggesting a woman’s body).
Iztaccihuatl
and
Popocatepetl
were once lovers, but were turned into mountains after displeasing the
gods. Iztaccihuatl was turned into a mountain without life, and
Popocatepetl
was given eternal life, but cursed with forever seeing the form of his
dead beloved Izta. In his anguish the mountain smokes and rumbles.
Local artists paint these lovers and the story is visually
repeated in restaurants in small towns around
Mexico City. The town of Cocoyoc commissioned a sculpture of the two
lovers. One stands next to the sculpture and sees the two mountains
quite close….it is awesome!
I
left
Mexico City
to the sound of the vendors in the streets around Hotel Catedral
selling love gifts for Valentine’s Day. Music boxes,
chocolate in
beautiful
wrappings and, of course CD music with
Mexican songs repeating the word heart…(Corazon)…..The windows of the
Patisseries are decorated and, the display of Valentine cakes is
ravishing. This is a city for love….art and, art lovers. I’ll be back!
Have a happy Valentine’s Day!
Some trip photos
Here are the nice people with whom I enjoyed various
tours in Mexico. Right: Gunter, Jin and Jaime (our guide) on the way to
Taxco. Left: Peter Whitlock, Patrick Lynch and Malcolm.
Note: During my trip to Mexico City in
January 2004, I took group tours and semi-private tours. I had my new
Digital Camera. However, my fellow travellers, Günter Mann (with his
daughter Jin) and Patrick Lynch (with his friends Peter Whitlock and
Malcolm) took photos that are by far superior to those I have taken.
Günter and Patrick kindly provided many beautiful photographs some of which
are included below.
